Gorges du Tarn and Millau by Motorcycle: the D907bis, the Jonte and the Causses

The Gorges du Tarn is one of the classic motorcycle rides of southern France: a river canyon cut deep into the limestone plateaus of the Causses, with a road that follows the water for mile after mile under towering cliffs. Next door, the narrower Gorges de la Jonte adds another canyon, and the empty plateau above both gives fast, open roads between them. Millau, at the bottom of it all, has the most spectacular bridge in France. This loop links them in about 200 kilometres.

Planning a Tarn trip

Millau is the best base, with plenty of hotels and easy access from the A75. Sainte-Enimie, La Malène and Le Rozier are smaller, quieter alternatives in the gorge itself; Meyrueis suits the Jonte. Allow two nights: one day for this loop, one for a side trip to the Cirque de Navacelles or Roquefort.

The A75 runs south from Clermont-Ferrand to Millau and on to the Mediterranean near Béziers. It is toll-free except for the Millau viaduct itself, which has its own toll. From the north, the ride down through the Auvergne makes a great approach (see the Auvergne volcanoes guide).

The route

Millau to Le Rozier (about 20km). Leave Millau north-east along the Tarn. The road passes under the Millau viaduct, and the view of the deck high above the valley, carried on slender piers with the tallest mast reaching 343 metres, is far more impressive from below than from the motorway. Follow the river up to Peyreleau and Le Rozier, where the Jonte joins the Tarn.

Gorges de la Jonte to Meyrueis (about 20km). At Le Rozier turn east up the D996 into the Gorges de la Jonte. This is a narrower canyon than the Tarn, with the road cut into the slope above the river and great limestone cliffs on both sides. Griffon vultures, reintroduced here, ride the thermals along the cliffs, and there is a viewing centre at Le Truel. Meyrueis, at the head of the gorge, is a pleasant stop.

Across the Causse Méjean to Sainte-Enimie (about 35km). From Meyrueis climb north onto the Causse Méjean, a high limestone plateau of grassland, stone walls and almost nothing else. The roads are open and fast, with long sightlines, and the sense of space after the gorges is striking. Descend steeply into the Tarn valley at Sainte-Enimie, a village of stone houses stacked on the hillside, classed among the most beautiful villages in France.

The Gorges du Tarn on the D907bis (about 45km). This is the heart of the ride. From Sainte-Enimie, the D907bis follows the Tarn downstream through Saint-Chély-du-Tarn and La Malène, where the boatmen take visitors down the river, then through the narrowest part of the canyon, past Les Vignes, to Le Rozier. The road is winding and sometimes narrow, cut through rock in places, with cliffs rising hundreds of metres above. The Point Sublime, on the plateau above Les Vignes, gives the classic view down into the canyon if you want a detour.

Back to Millau and the viaduct (about 50km). From Le Rozier return down the Tarn to Millau. Cross it on the A75 (tolled) for the experience of riding through the sky, or stop at the visitor area beside the viaduct for the view. Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, where the blue cheese ripens in caves, is about 25 kilometres south-west of Millau.

Side trip: the Cirque de Navacelles

South-east of Millau, the Vis river has carved a huge meander into the Causse du Larzac and then abandoned it, leaving a village sitting in the bottom of a round, cliff-ringed bowl. The roads down into the Cirque de Navacelles are steep, with tight hairpins and big views. It makes a fine half-day out of Millau.

The roads

The gorge roads are narrow and twisty, with rock walls on one side and the river on the other, and some short tunnels. In July and August they are very busy with camper vans, canoe trailers and cars, all moving slowly. Ride early in the morning or outside the school holidays for a much better experience. Rockfall is possible after storms. The plateau roads are fast but exposed, with sheep and the occasional tractor. Fill up in Millau, Meyrueis or Sainte-Enimie.

Parking in the gorge villages is tight in summer, but bikes can usually find a space near the river where cars cannot. La Malène and Sainte-Enimie have cafés and small shops; between them, there is not much, so plan your stops. Mobile coverage is patchy at the bottom of the canyon, so download your maps before you set off.

When to go

May, June and September are ideal: warm, settled and much quieter than mid-summer. July and August are hot in the gorges and very busy. April and October can be lovely but cold on the plateau, and autumn storms can bring heavy rain to the Cévennes.

Riding in the heat

The gorges trap heat in summer, and the Causses offer no shade at all. In July and August, ride the canyon roads first thing in the morning, take a long lunch in the shade, and save the plateau for the evening light. Carry water, especially on the Causse Méjean, where there is little between Meyrueis and Sainte-Enimie. The river beaches at La Malène and Les Vignes are a good place to cool off.

A two-day plan

Day one: Millau, the Jonte, the Causse Méjean and the Gorges du Tarn, as above. Day two: south across the Causse du Larzac to the Cirque de Navacelles, back through the Templar villages of the Larzac such as La Couvertoirade, and on to Roquefort for the caves. Riders with a third day can head east into the Cévennes, where the roads are even twistier and quieter.

Where to stay

Millau is the practical base; Sainte-Enimie and La Malène put you in the gorge for an early start. See our biker-friendly stays in France. The Tarn pairs naturally with the Auvergne to the north, and the Mediterranean is about an hour and a half south. Riders continuing to Spain can head for the Pyrenees and the Tourmalet, a long day to the south-west.