Corsica by Motorcycle: Calanques de Piana, Col de Vergio and Bavella

Corsica is a mountain in the sea. Almost every road on the island climbs, twists or clings to a cliff, and the scenery changes from red granite coast to pine forest to bare peaks within an hour. It is one of the most rewarding motorcycle destinations in Europe and also one of the most demanding: the roads are narrow, slow and relentless, and a 100-kilometre day can take as long as 300 kilometres on the mainland. Plan for that, and Corsica is unforgettable.

Planning a Corsica trip

Ferries run from Marseille, Toulon and Nice on the French side, and from Livorno, Savona and Genoa in Italy, to Bastia, Ajaccio, Île-Rousse, Calvi and Porto-Vecchio. Night crossings save a day. Book ahead for July and August. This tour is a loop of around 650 kilometres; ridden over four to six days, it leaves time to enjoy the island rather than just survive the roads. Good overnight stops are Porto or Piana, Corte, Zonza or Porto-Vecchio, Bonifacio and Bastia.

The route

Ajaccio to Porto via the Calanques (about 85km). From Ajaccio ride north along the coast via Sagone and Cargèse to Piana. Between Piana and Porto, the D81 winds through the Calanques de Piana, a UNESCO-listed landscape of red granite cliffs and pinnacles plunging into the sea. The road is very narrow, with rock on one side and a drop on the other, and coaches use it, so the few kilometres can take a long time in summer. Porto, at the head of its gulf, is a good overnight stop.

Porto over the Col de Vergio to Corte (about 85km). The D84 climbs inland from Porto through the Spelunca gorge and the Aïtone forest of tall Laricio pines, crossing small stone bridges as it gains height. The Col de Vergio, at around 1,470 metres, is the highest road pass on Corsica. The descent east runs through the Niolu valley and down the Scala di Santa Regina, a granite gorge where the road is carved into the side of the canyon. At Francardo join the main road south to Corte.

Corte and the Restonica (a side trip). Corte, the island's old capital, sits on a rock in the middle of the mountains, with a citadel above the town. The Restonica gorge road climbs from Corte into a high valley; it is narrow and its upper part can be restricted or paid at busy times, so check locally.

Corte to Zonza over the Col de Bavella (about 130km). Ride south and east toward the coast at Ghisonaccia or Solenzara, then turn inland on the D268 up to the Col de Bavella (1,218m). The climb through the Solenzara valley is a series of tight bends with river pools below, and the pass itself is surrounded by the Aiguilles de Bavella, jagged granite needles above a pine forest. Descend to Zonza, a mountain village and a good overnight stop.

Zonza to Bonifacio (about 75km). Ride south through Levie or down to Porto-Vecchio, then to Bonifacio at the southern tip of the island. The old town stands on white limestone cliffs above the sea, with Sardinia visible across the strait on a clear day.

Back north to Bastia and Cap Corse (about 275km). The east coast road north from Porto-Vecchio to Bastia is the fastest road on the island and a chance to cover distance. From Bastia, the D80 loops around Cap Corse, the long finger of mountains at the northern tip: a coastal corniche with small villages, Genoese towers and sea views on both sides. Allow a full day for the cape, then catch your ferry home from Bastia.

The roads

Corsican roads are narrow, twisting and often without barriers. Surfaces vary from fresh to badly broken, and gravel or sand on the bends is common. Cows, pigs and goats wander freely, often around blind corners. Local drivers know the roads and drive them quickly; hire cars and camper vans do not, and stop suddenly. Plan on a low average speed, keep well to your side of the road on blind bends and save the pace for the few main roads. Fuel stations are sparse in the mountains and many close on Sundays and at lunchtime, so fill up whenever you can.

Carry a puncture repair kit and know how to use it: the nearest bike workshop can be a long way off in the mountains. Keep some cash, as small village bars and some fuel pumps do not always take cards. Download offline maps before you go, because mobile coverage is patchy in the interior valleys.

When to go

May, June and September are the best months: warm, long days and far fewer visitors. July and August are hot and very busy, with ferries and hotels heavily booked and slow traffic on the coast roads. The high passes can have snow into spring and are cold even in early summer.

Ferries and the bike

Arrive at the port in good time: bikes usually board first or last and are lashed down by the crew, but bring your own soft ties or straps if you want to protect your paintwork. Take what you need for the night in a small bag, as you cannot return to the vehicle deck during the crossing. On a night ferry a cabin is worth the money. Fuel up before you board, as the stations near the ports can be busy when a ferry lands.

A five-day plan

Day one: Ajaccio to Porto via the Calanques. Day two: Porto over the Col de Vergio to Corte, with the Restonica in the afternoon. Day three: Corte over the Col de Bavella to Zonza. Day four: Zonza to Bonifacio and up to Porto-Vecchio. Day five: the east coast to Bastia and the Cap Corse loop. A sixth day lets you add the Balagne villages and the coast road around Calvi and Île-Rousse.

Where to stay

Stay in Porto or Piana for the west coast, Corte for the mountains, Zonza for Bavella and Bonifacio or Porto-Vecchio for the south. See our biker-friendly stays in France. Riders coming from the north can ride the Route des Grandes Alpes down to Nice for the ferry, or take in the Gorges du Verdon on the way to Toulon.