Gorges du Verdon by Motorcycle: the Route des Crêtes and the Corniche Sublime

The Gorges du Verdon is the deepest canyon in France: a gash in the limestone of Haute-Provence, up to several hundred metres deep, with the green Verdon river at the bottom. Roads run along both rims, cut into the cliff in places, with viewpoints that drop straight into the void. It is one of the great motorcycle rides of southern France, and at around 180 kilometres the full loop fits easily into a day, leaving time for the stops.

Planning a Verdon trip

Castellane, at the eastern end of the gorge, is the classic base and a crossroads for riders: the Route Napoléon passes through town. Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and La Palud-sur-Verdon are smaller alternatives on the north side; Aiguines suits the south. Allow two nights so you can ride the loop without rushing and have a spare day for the lake or the Route Napoléon.

The Verdon is an easy detour from the southern end of the Route des Grandes Alpes, and many riders add it on the way down to Nice. From the north, the A7 down the Rhône and the A51 to Manosque or Sisteron get you within about an hour.

The route

Castellane to the Point Sublime (about 20km). Leave Castellane west on the D952. The road follows the Verdon through a narrowing valley, with the cliffs closing in. The Point Sublime is the first great viewpoint: a short walk from the road leads to a balcony over the entrance to the Grand Canyon, where the river disappears into the gorge.

The Route des Crêtes from La Palud (about 25km). At La Palud-sur-Verdon, turn onto the D23 Route des Crêtes. It is a loop out and back to the village along the north rim, with a long series of belvederes over the deepest part of the canyon. Part of the road is one-way, so it must be ridden clockwise, as signed in and around the village. The section between the Jas d'Aire and the Chalet de la Maline is closed in winter, typically from late November to late March; check with the La Palud tourist office or Verdon Tourisme before you go out of season. Stop at as many viewpoints as you like: the drops are huge, the barriers are low, and the vultures circling below you are griffon vultures, reintroduced to the gorge.

La Palud to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (about 20km). Continue west on the D952, which climbs and winds along the cliff edge with more viewpoints before descending to Moustiers. The village is built into a cleft in the rock, with a gold star hanging on a chain across the gap high above. It is a good lunch stop but crowded at midday in summer.

Lac de Sainte-Croix (about 20km). Ride south past the Lac de Sainte-Croix, the reservoir where the Verdon leaves the gorge, its water a vivid turquoise. Cross the bridge at the mouth of the canyon, where you can see boats and pedal boats heading up into the gorge, and climb to Aiguines, a village with a turreted château above the lake.

The Corniche Sublime (about 45km). From Aiguines the D71 runs east along the south rim. This is the Corniche Sublime: a road that clings to the cliff and passes the Balcons de la Mescla, where the Artuby river joins the Verdon far below, and the Pont de l'Artuby, a single-arch bridge high over a side gorge. The road is narrower and more exposed than the north side, with tight bends and tunnels cut through the rock.

Back to Castellane via Trigance (about 40km). Leave the rim near Comps-sur-Artuby or Trigance and ride back north-east toward Castellane through the hills. These are quieter roads with good bends and little traffic.

The roads

The rim roads are narrow and twisting, with low walls or no barrier at all, and they carry camper vans, coaches and hire cars in summer, all of them stopping suddenly at viewpoints. Rockfall is possible, especially after rain. Overtaking is rarely safe. The best plan is an early start: the light on the canyon is better and the traffic lighter before 10 o'clock. There is little fuel on the rims, so fill up in Castellane, Moustiers or Aiguines.

Take plenty of water in summer. The rims are exposed limestone with little shade, and the heat reflected off the rock can be intense by midday. Parking at the busiest viewpoints is tight, but bikes can usually squeeze in where cars cannot; keep well clear of the road edge when you pull in and out.

When to go

May, June and September are the best months: warm, settled and less crowded. July and August are hot and very busy, with slow traffic on both rims. Spring and autumn bring cooler days and quieter roads, but check the Route des Crêtes closure dates and the weather, as storms on the plateau can be sudden.

Riding in France

A few French rules catch out visiting riders. Riders and passengers must wear CE-approved motorcycle gloves, and helmets must carry reflective stickers. Speed limits on two-lane country roads are 80km/h or 90km/h depending on the department, so watch the signs. Autoroutes are tolled, with motorcycles paying less than cars. Speed cameras are common, and using a device that warns of their position is banned. Rules change, so check the Sécurité Routière website or your motoring club before you travel.

A two-day plan

Day one: the full loop above, starting early from Castellane. Day two: the Route Napoléon south from Castellane to Grasse, a fast, flowing road over a series of cols with long views toward the coast, then back via the quieter roads through Comps-sur-Artuby and the hills north of the gorge. Riders heading for the Alps can instead ride north from Castellane toward Digne and the Col d'Allos.

Where to stay

Castellane is the best base for riders, with Moustiers and La Palud for the north rim and Aiguines for the south. See our biker-friendly stays in France and the French Alps listings for the mountains to the north. The Route Napoléon from Castellane south to Grasse is a fine ride in its own right and a natural way in or out.