Route Napoléon by Motorcycle: The N85 from the Riviera to Grenoble

In March 1815, Napoleon escaped from Elba, landed at Golfe-Juan near Cannes and marched north through the mountains to Grenoble, avoiding the royalist towns of the Rhône valley. The road that follows his route, the N85, is now the Route Napoléon, and it is one of the classic motorcycle roads of France: about 325 kilometres from the Riviera to the Alps, through the dry hills of Provence, over a string of passes and down into Grenoble. It is a main road, so it is wide and well surfaced, and its bends are long and fast rather than tight and technical. That makes it a joy on almost any bike.

Planning the ride

The whole route can be ridden in a long day, but two days is better, with a night in Castellane, Digne or Sisteron. Ride it north from the coast, as Napoleon did, and the scenery builds toward the Alps; ride it south and you finish with the sea. It links naturally with the Gorges du Verdon (see the Verdon guide) and with the Route des Grandes Alpes, which runs parallel further east.

The route, section by section

Golfe-Juan to Grasse (about 25km). The start is suburban: Golfe-Juan, Cannes and the inland sprawl toward Grasse, the perfume town on the hillside. Traffic is heavy and slow, and many riders join the route at Grasse.

Grasse to Castellane (about 65km). This is the best part of the whole route. North of Grasse the road climbs in a series of hairpins and sweepers onto the limestone plateau, past Saint-Vallier-de-Thiey, and then crosses a run of passes through dry hills of scrub, pine and lavender, with long sight lines and very little traffic outside summer weekends. The bends flow one into the next, the surface is generally good, and the views stretch back toward the coast. The descent into Castellane, under a chapel perched on a huge rock above the town, is a fine finish.

Castellane to Digne-les-Bains (about 55km). Castellane is the gateway to the Gorges du Verdon, a short ride west. North of the town the N85 continues through Barrême, following valleys and crossing small passes on its way to Digne, a spa town on the Bléone river surrounded by lavender fields.

Digne to Sisteron (about 40km). This is a faster, more open section down to the Durance valley. Sisteron's citadel stands on a rock above a narrow gap where the Durance cuts through the mountains: the town feels like a gateway between Provence and the Alps, and it makes a good overnight stop.

Sisteron to Gap and the Col Bayard (about 60km). North of Sisteron the landscape turns alpine. Gap is a busy market town; just north of it the road climbs to the Col Bayard, at about 1,246 metres the highest point on the route, then drops into the Champsaur valley.

Corps, La Mure and Laffrey (about 55km). Past Corps, the road runs above the Lac du Sautet reservoir and across the high Matheysine plateau to La Mure. At Laffrey, by a chain of lakes, a statue of Napoleon on horseback marks the Prairie de la Rencontre, where royalist troops sent to stop him joined him instead.

Laffrey to Grenoble (about 25km). From Laffrey the road drops in a long, steep descent to Vizille, whose château houses a museum of the French Revolution. Use the engine and keep your speed down: the descent is long enough to cook brakes. From Vizille it is a short run into Grenoble.

The roads

The N85 is a main road, so expect lorries, camper vans and local traffic in places, especially around Grasse, Digne and Gap. Speed cameras are common, and the long open bends make it easy to go faster than you mean to. Away from the towns, the road surface is generally good, but watch for gravel on the edges after storms and for strong winds in the open valleys. In summer the Provence section is very hot in the afternoon, and fuel stations can be far apart between Grasse and Castellane.

When to go

April to October. Spring and autumn are ideal: the Provence hills are green in spring, and late June to July brings the lavender in flower around Digne and Valensole. July and August are hot and busy, especially at weekends. The northern section near the Col Bayard and Laffrey can have snow in winter and early spring.

Riding in France

Gloves are compulsory for motorcyclists in France, and helmets must carry reflective stickers. The limit on most two-lane country roads is 80km/h, but many departments have restored 90km/h on some roads, so follow the signs. Many towns, including Grenoble, have low-emission zones that need a Crit'Air sticker. See our riding in France page for the details.

Which direction?

Riding north, as Napoleon did, the scenery builds from the hills of Provence to the high Alps, and you finish in Grenoble with the Route des Grandes Alpes and the northern passes within reach. Riding south, you end on the Riviera, which suits riders heading for the coast or the Col de Turini. Either way the best section, Grasse to Castellane, is the same road, and many riders ride it twice. Look out for the eagle emblem on the route signs, a reminder of the march: Napoleon covered the distance from the coast to Grenoble in about a week.

Combining it with the Verdon

At Castellane, the Gorges du Verdon open to the west, and a loop of the canyon is the obvious side trip. Ride the north rim to La Palud-sur-Verdon and the Route des Crêtes, carry on to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, then return along the south rim by the Corniche Sublime. That loop adds a full day, and it is worth it: see our Verdon guide for the details.

Where to stay

Castellane, Digne and Sisteron are the best overnight stops in the middle of the route; Grasse and Grenoble at the ends. See our French Alps biker hotels, and the Bonette and Turini guide for the high passes to the east. For more French roads, see the best motorcycle roads in France.