Isle of Skye and Applecross by Motorcycle: Glen Shiel, Trotternish and the Bealach na Bà

Skye is the most famous island in Scotland, and for riders it lives up to the hype: mountains that drop straight into the sea, empty single-track roads round every peninsula, and the Cuillin ridge on the skyline all day. Across the water on the mainland, the road over the Bealach na Bà to Applecross is the most dramatic pass in Britain. This three-day route of about 400km (249 mi) links them: Glen Shiel to Skye, a full day on the island, and a day for Applecross and the coast road beyond.

Day 1: Invergarry to Portree through Glen Shiel (about 145km / 90 mi)

The A87 leaves the Great Glen at Invergarry and climbs west past Loch Garry, where a viewpoint looks down on a loch shaped like a map of Scotland. It crosses the high ground by Loch Loyne and Cluanie, then drops through Glen Shiel, a deep, steep-sided glen with the Five Sisters of Kintail on one side. The road is wide and fast, with long bends. At Dornie, Eilean Donan castle sits on its island at the meeting of three lochs and is one of the most photographed buildings in Scotland. From Kyle of Lochalsh, the Skye Bridge takes you over to the island, and the A87 continues through Broadford and past Sligachan, at the foot of the Cuillin, to Portree.

Day 2: Skye (about 110km / 68 mi, plus side trips)

The Trotternish loop. North of Portree, the A855 runs up the east coast of the Trotternish peninsula past the Old Man of Storr, a pinnacle of rock on the hillside, and Kilt Rock, a sea cliff of basalt columns with a waterfall dropping into the sea. At Staffin, a single-track road climbs west over the Quiraing, a landslip of towers and cliffs, with tight hairpins on the climb, and drops down to Uig. Continue round the top of the peninsula on the A855 or take the A87 back to Portree. The loop is about 80km (50 mi).

Elgol. From Broadford, the B8083 runs south-west to Elgol, a single-track road of about 24km (15 mi) each way with steep, blind crests and a final plunge to the harbour. The view across Loch Scavaig to the Cuillin is one of the finest on Skye.

Neist Point and the west. With time to spare, the roads west of Dunvegan lead to Neist Point lighthouse on the most westerly tip of Skye. Single-track, narrow and rough in places, but a glorious spot for the sunset.

Day 3: Applecross and the coast (about 150km / 93 mi)

From Kyle of Lochalsh, the A87 and A890 lead north to Lochcarron. At Tornapress, the road over the Bealach na Bà, the Pass of the Cattle, climbs from sea level to 626m (2,054ft) in under 10km (6 mi), with gradients of 20% and tight hairpins near the top. The summit gives views over the Inner Sound to Raasay and Skye on a clear day. The descent drops to the village of Applecross. From there, the coast road runs north and east round the peninsula to Shieldaig, a long, slow, beautiful single-track road with sea views all the way, and the A896 brings you back to Lochcarron. The route over the Bealach is covered in more depth in our North Coast 500 guide.

The Bealach na Bà: what to expect

The Bealach is single-track with passing places, and its hairpins are tight enough that you need low-speed control and a clear head. The surface can be broken and gritty, and cloud often sits on the summit. Signs at the bottom warn learners and large vehicles off the road. Ride it in the dry if you can, in the morning before the traffic builds, and do not be afraid to stop at the top and wait for a gap in the cars before the descent. If the weather is bad, the coast road via Shieldaig is a fine alternative way into Applecross.

Single-track etiquette

Much of Skye and Applecross is single-track. If the passing place is on your left, pull into it; if it is on your right, stop opposite and let the other vehicle use it. Let faster traffic behind you overtake. Never park in a passing place, even for a photo. Skye is very busy in summer with campervans and hire cars driven by people unused to these roads, so expect hesitation and the odd vehicle stopped in the middle of the road.

Ferries

Two ferries make good alternatives to the Skye Bridge. The small turntable ferry from Glenelg to Kylerhea runs in summer only and is a memorable crossing, reached over the steep Mam Ratagan pass from Shiel Bridge. CalMac runs a ferry from Mallaig to Armadale in the south of Skye. Check sailing times and book in summer: see CalMac for Mallaig and the Glenelg ferry's own site.

Practical matters

Fuel is in Broadford, Portree, Kyle and Lochcarron, but sparse elsewhere: fill up whenever you can. Rooms on Skye are scarce and expensive in summer and must be booked well ahead. Midges are a fact of life in calm weather from June to August. The weather changes several times a day, so waterproofs and warm layers are essential even in July.

Bikes and kit

Skye and Applecross suit adventure bikes and mid-weight tourers best. A heavy, low tourer ridden two-up will manage, but the Bealach hairpins and the single-track roads on Trotternish and to Elgol are hard work with a full load. Pack for rain and wind every day, take midge repellent from June to August, and carry a small puncture kit: help can be a long way off on the island.

When to go

May, June and September are the best months: long days, fewer visitors, and more chance of settled weather. July and August are very busy on Skye.

Where to stay

Portree and Broadford are the main bases on Skye, with Kyle of Lochalsh and Dornie on the mainland and Lochcarron or Applecross for the Bealach. See all Scottish Highlands biker-friendly stays. Coming from the south, ride up Glencoe and the A82; heading north, Applecross is on the North Coast 500.