North Coast 500 — Scotland's Ultimate Biker Route

Scotland's North Coast 500 has been called the Scottish answer to Route 66 — which rather undersells it. The NC500 is 830 kilometres of some of the most technically demanding, scenically dramatic, and historically dense road riding in Europe. It is not a route you can half-do. It demands respect, proper waterproofs, and a willingness to plan accommodation well in advance.

The Route

The NC500 loops around the northern Highlands, starting and ending in Inverness. Most riders take the west coast heading north out of Inverness, tackling the Applecross Peninsula and the Bealach na Bà on the outward leg before rounding Cape Wrath and returning east along the north coast. The clockwise direction is the more popular choice, though some riders prefer the anticlockwise approach to hit the Bealach with a fresh eye.

The sheer variety of road surface and character is what makes the NC500 special. The route moves from dual carriageway south of Inverness to genuinely narrow single-track roads through Wester Ross within an hour. By the time you reach Torridon you are threading through one of the oldest landscapes on earth — Torridonian sandstone that predates the Caledonian mountains — on a road that feels like it was laid as an afterthought.

The Bealach na Bà

The Bealach na Bà (Pass of the Cattle) above Applecross is the most famous section of the NC500 and arguably the most dramatic road pass in Britain. The ascent from the village of Kishorn climbs 626 metres in under eight kilometres, with hairpin bends tight enough to require multiple-point turns in a van and gradients that hit 20% on the upper section. The summit plateau delivers panoramic views over the Inner Sound to Skye and Raasay on a clear day. On a misty day it delivers visibility of about fifteen metres and a strong incentive to stop before the descent.

Bikers with modest engines or limited technical experience should treat the Bealach with caution. The road is narrow, the surface can be wet and gritty, and the hairpins require precise throttle control. Riders with adventure bikes or large tourers should be aware that the tight turns reward a slow approach. There is no disgrace in stopping at the summit for twenty minutes to let the concentration settle before the descent.

Key Stops

Ullapool is the natural mid-point on the western section. The town has solid accommodation and a real sense that it serves the land around it — fishing boats, ferry connections to the Outer Hebrides, a good pub. From Ullapool the route north passes through Assynt, where Suilven and Stac Pollaidh rise from the flat moorland as isolated sandstone towers in a way that makes the landscape feel almost geological theatre.

The north coast from Durness to Thurso is the least technically demanding section but delivers some of the best Atlantic scenery on the route. Smoo Cave near Durness is worth a brief stop. John O'Groats is genuinely less impressive than its reputation suggests, but finishing there is a milestone worth claiming. Wick is a working town with no tourist pretension and all the better for it.

The east coast return from Wick to Inverness is faster and flatter but passes through Dunrobin Castle at Golspie — visible from the road, Gothic and improbable — and the Black Isle before the final stretch back into Inverness.

Practical Matters

Fuel is the NC500 rider's first logistical concern. Petrol stations are sparse on the west coast between Applecross and Ullapool, and between Ullapool and Durness. Carry a small reserve or plan fuel stops carefully. Many stations on the route have limited opening hours, particularly on Sundays.

Accommodation must be booked far in advance in summer. The NC500's rise in profile since 2015 means that biker-friendly B&Bs with secure parking in Torridon, Applecross, and Durness fill months ahead between June and August. May and September offer better availability, lower prices, and — often — better riding conditions. The midges (tiny biting insects) are at their worst in July and August, particularly in calm weather at dusk.

When to Go

May to September is the viable season. May offers longer daylight, lower accommodation costs, and roads that are clear of summer traffic. The weather is genuinely unpredictable throughout — pack for full rain on any day of the year. September brings clearer skies and heather in bloom across the moorland, making it many experienced riders' preferred month. The north coast roads can be icy into April and October even when conditions further south seem fine.

The NC500 is a genuine challenge and a genuine reward. Riders who have done both rate it alongside the best mountain routes in the Alps — not for speed, but for sustained landscape intensity that few European roads can match.

Where to stay along the route

The NC500 needs accommodation booked early — particularly between Applecross, Torridon, Ullapool, and Durness on the west and north coasts where rooms are scarce in summer. A few rider-relevant options from our directory:

• Biker B&B @ Route U55 — Breakish, Isle of Skye. Useful base for tackling the Bealach na Bà and the Skye loop on consecutive days.
• The Smiddy Bunkhouse — bunkhouse-style budget option for solo riders or small groups happy to share.
• Strontian Hotel — Lochaber. Off the main NC500 loop but a natural extension if pairing with a ferry-out-via-Skye route.

For the full list of Scottish Highlands stays in our directory, see all Scottish Highlands biker-friendly accommodation. Most NC500 stops (Applecross, Ullapool, Durness, Wick) are not yet covered — if you know a place we should add, send it via /submit.