Lake District Passes by Motorcycle: Hardknott, Wrynose, Honister and Kirkstone

The Lake District crams some of the steepest roads in England into a national park around 55km (35 mi) across. On a bike that means a day of slow, technical riding over passes that are short but serious, through some of the finest scenery in Britain. This 170km (105 mi) loop from Ambleside takes in the five passes worth riding, in an order that saves the hardest for last.

The route

Ambleside to Ullswater over Kirkstone (about 18km / 11 mi). Leave Ambleside straight up The Struggle, a steep, narrow lane that climbs to the Kirkstone Pass Inn at 454m (1,489ft), the highest road pass in the Lake District. The A592 then drops down the far side past Brothers Water to Patterdale and Glenridding on Ullswater. If The Struggle feels too much, the A592 from Windermere is the gentler way up.

Ullswater to Keswick (about 40km / 25 mi). Follow the A592 along Ullswater, one of the best lake roads in the park, then cut across to the A66 and west to Keswick.

Keswick, Honister and Newlands (about 37km / 23 mi). Take the B5289 south down Borrowdale, past Derwentwater and through the jaws of Borrowdale to Seatoller. Honister Pass climbs from there at up to 1 in 4 to the slate mine at the top and drops steeply to Buttermere. From Buttermere village, Newlands Pass takes you back over to Keswick: narrow, open and empty of trees, with waterfalls beside the road.

Keswick to Ambleside (about 27km / 17 mi). The A591 runs south past Thirlmere, over Dunmail Raise and down through Grasmere. A fast, easy stretch before the hard part.

Wrynose and Hardknott (about 50km / 31 mi out and back). From Ambleside head west via Skelwith Bridge into Little Langdale and climb Wrynose Pass. At the bottom of its far side, Cockley Beck, Hardknott Pass begins: single-track, with hairpins at gradients of up to 1 in 3 (33%), equal to the steepest roads in England. On the western descent, the remains of a Roman fort look down Eskdale. Descend to Boot in Eskdale, then come back the same way, which means riding both passes in both directions.

Hardknott and Wrynose: what to expect

These passes are not for nervous riders or for heavy bikes ridden two-up without experience. The hairpins are tight and steep enough that you need low-speed clutch control and the confidence to stop and restart on a 1 in 3 slope if a car is coming down. The surface is often broken at the edges, with gravel and water running across in wet weather. Sheep wander the road. Cars meet head-on in places with no passing room. Ride them early in the morning or in the evening, in the dry, and give way generously. The passes can be closed by snow and ice in winter.

Extension: the Yorkshire Dales and Buttertubs Pass

Riders with an extra day should ride east from Kendal on the A684 through Sedbergh to Hawes, about 45km (28 mi). From Hawes the Buttertubs Pass climbs north over the fells to Swaledale, named after the limestone pits near the summit and climbed by the Tour de France in 2014. Continue down Swaledale through Muker and Reeth for one of the best dale roads in England, and loop back to Hawes over the moors.

When to go

April to October. May, June and September are best: long days and fewer cars. Summer weekends and bank holidays bring heavy traffic on the main roads and queues on the passes. Rain is likely at any time of year, and it turns the steep passes slippery, so pack waterproofs and be ready to change plans.

Where to stay in the Lake District

Ambleside and Keswick are the two best bases for the passes, with Windermere, Grasmere and Eskdale as quieter options. See all Lake District biker-friendly stays. Kendal works well if you want to combine the Lakes and the Dales.