North York Moors by Motorcycle: Blakey Ridge, Rosedale Chimney and Whitby

The North York Moors are a high plateau of heather between the Vale of York and the North Sea, cut by deep green dales and crossed by a few long, empty roads. They are less famous for riding than the Dales or the Lakes, which is a large part of their appeal: fast moorland roads, some of the steepest hills in England and the coast at Whitby, all in a loop of about 130km (81 mi) from Helmsley. Many of the roads are unfenced, and the sheep are everywhere.

The route

Helmsley to Pickering (about 21km / 13 mi). Head east along the A170 through Kirkbymoorside to Pickering, a market town with a steam railway. This is an easy warm-up along the southern edge of the moors.

Pickering to Whitby over the A169 (about 34km / 21 mi). The A169 climbs north onto the open moor and sweeps around the rim of the Hole of Horcum, a huge natural bowl in the hillside, with a viewpoint and car park at the top. Beyond it the road runs fast and open past the Fylingdales early-warning station, then drops through Sleights into the Esk valley and Whitby. It is the best road on the moors for sustained, flowing riding, and it is popular, so expect police patrols and speed checks.

Whitby to Castleton through the Esk valley (about 30km / 19 mi). Leave Whitby west through the villages along the Esk: Grosmont, Egton Bridge, Glaisdale and Lealholm. The lanes here are narrow and steep, with fords and hairpins in places, and it is worth taking a map rather than trusting the sat-nav to the letter. From Danby, a short run brings you to Castleton.

Castleton to the Lion Inn over Blakey Ridge (about 12km / 7 mi). The road south from Castleton climbs onto Blakey Ridge, the spine of the moors, and runs along it with long views into Farndale on one side and Rosedale on the other. The Lion Inn sits alone on the ridge at about 404m (1,325ft) and is one of the best-known biker stops in the north of England.

Down into Rosedale and up Chimney Bank (about 15km / 9 mi). Just south of the Lion Inn, turn off down the head of Rosedale to Rosedale Abbey. From the village, Rosedale Chimney Bank climbs west at a signed gradient of 1 in 3 (33%), with tight bends in the steepest part. It is one of the steepest public roads in England. At the top, the moor road runs over Spaunton Moor to Hutton-le-Hole, one of the prettiest villages in the national park.

Hutton-le-Hole back to Helmsley (about 15km / 9 mi). Drop down to Kirkbymoorside and return along the A170, or take the lanes through Gillamoor and Fadmoor for a last few bends.

Rosedale Chimney Bank: what to expect

We send you up Chimney Bank rather than down it on purpose. On a 1 in 3 slope, climbing is a matter of clutch control and commitment; descending on a heavy bike, with the front brake doing all the work, is far less forgiving. Approach in first gear, pick your line before the steep bends, and do not stop on the steepest section unless you have to. If a car is coming down, pull over where the road eases. Avoid it in the wet, when the surface can be slippery, and in ice or snow, when it is impassable. If you are not comfortable, the road from Rosedale Abbey north back to Blakey Ridge is a far easier way out.

Extensions

• Sutton Bank. West of Helmsley, the A170 climbs Sutton Bank at 1 in 4, with a hairpin halfway up. It is signed as unsuitable for caravans for good reason. The view from the top, across the Vale of York to the Dales, is often called one of the finest in England.
• The coast. South of Whitby, the A171 and the lanes to Robin Hood's Bay and Ravenscar give you sea views and very steep village streets. Park at the top in Robin Hood's Bay and walk down.
• Farndale and Bransdale. The dales either side of Blakey Ridge have narrow, gated roads that feel miles from anywhere. Lovely in daffodil season, but slow.

Riding tips for the moors

Most of the high roads are unfenced and the sheep graze on the verges and the road. They do not look before crossing and lambs follow their mothers without warning. Cattle grids are frequent. Moorland roads can be fast and empty, which is exactly when a sheep or a car stopped at a viewpoint catches you out. The Esk valley lanes have gravel and mud on the bends after rain. Fuel is limited on the moor itself: fill up in Helmsley, Pickering or Whitby.

A suggested day

Leave Helmsley early and take the A170 and A169 to Whitby before the tourist traffic, then stop by the harbour for breakfast or an early fish lunch. The Esk valley lanes take longer than the map suggests, so allow a good hour from Whitby to Castleton. Ride Blakey Ridge south in the early afternoon, stop at the Lion Inn, then take Rosedale and Chimney Bank while the road is dry and the light is still good. Finish through Hutton-le-Hole and back to Helmsley, with Sutton Bank as an evening extra if you still have the appetite. The whole loop takes five to six hours with stops.

Bikes and kit

The A-roads suit any bike. Chimney Bank and the Esk valley lanes reward a lighter bike and good low-speed skills; on a big tourer, think twice and use the easier way out of Rosedale described above. A tank bag with a paper map is useful in the Esk valley, where sat-navs like to send you down gated farm lanes. Take a warm layer: the moor top is often several degrees colder than the coast. For a longer trip in Yorkshire, combine this loop with the Dales passes on the next day.

When to go

April to October. Late August and early September bring the heather into flower and turn the whole plateau purple. Summer weekends are busy at Whitby, on the A169 and at the Lion Inn. Sea fog, known locally as a fret, can roll in off the coast and cover the eastern moors even on warm days.

Where to stay

Helmsley and Pickering make good bases, with Whitby the choice if you want the coast. Hutton-le-Hole and Rosedale Abbey are quieter. See all North York Moors biker-friendly stays. The Dales are about an hour and a half west: see the Yorkshire Dales loop and all Yorkshire Dales biker-friendly stays. Heading north, the Military Road and the North Pennines make a good next day.