Glencoe and the A82 by Motorcycle: Loch Lomond, Rannoch Moor and Fort William

The A82 is the main road from Glasgow into the West Highlands, and the stretch from Loch Lomond to Fort William is one of the great rides in Britain. In about 170km (106 mi) it takes you from the edge of the city along the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, across the bleak expanse of Rannoch Moor and down through Glencoe, the most dramatic glen in Scotland. It is a main road, not a back road, so you share it with lorries, coaches and campervans, but the landscape more than makes up for it.

The route

Glasgow to Tarbet (about 55km / 34 mi). Leave Glasgow on the A82 past Dumbarton to Balloch at the south end of Loch Lomond. From here the road runs up the western shore of the loch, wide and fast at first, with the loch through the trees on your right.

Tarbet to Crianlarich (about 30km / 19 mi). North of Tarbet the A82 narrows sharply, squeezed between the loch and the hillside, with tight bends and little room when a lorry comes the other way. This section has been the subject of a long-running upgrade, so expect roadworks and temporary lights; Traffic Scotland lists current works. Take it slowly, as everyone has to.

Crianlarich to the Kingshouse over Rannoch Moor (about 45km / 28 mi). From Crianlarich the road widens and runs north through Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy, then climbs onto Rannoch Moor. This is the highlight for many riders: a vast open plateau of bog, heather and small lochs with mountains on every horizon and the road running straight across it. The road is wide and well surfaced, and the moor is so open that it is easy to let the speed creep up. Watch for deer, especially in the evening.

Through Glencoe to Ballachulish (about 20km / 12 mi). At the far side of the moor, Buachaille Etive Mòr stands guard over the entrance to Glencoe like a pyramid. The road drops into the glen past the Three Sisters, a row of huge rock buttresses, and runs down to the village of Glencoe and the shore of Loch Leven. There are several car parks along the glen; the ones below the Three Sisters are the busiest. The glen is also the site of the Massacre of Glencoe of 1692, and the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre near the village tells the story.

Ballachulish to Fort William (about 20km / 12 mi). Cross the Ballachulish bridge and follow Loch Linnhe north to Fort William, under Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain.

Glen Etive

Just before the road drops into Glencoe, a single-track road turns south-west down Glen Etive. It runs about 19km (12 mi) to the head of Loch Etive and stops: there is no way through, so you come back the same way. It is one of the most beautiful roads in Scotland, along a river of waterfalls and rock pools between steep mountains, and it was used as a location in the James Bond film Skyfall. The surface is rough in places, and on summer weekends it is busy with parked cars and campers. Use the passing places properly (see below), and ride it early or late.

Riding single-track roads

Glen Etive and many Highland side roads are single-track, with passing places marked by diamond or square white signs. The rules are simple. If the passing place is on your left, pull into it; if it is on your right, stop opposite it and let the other vehicle pull in. Pull in to let faster traffic behind you overtake. Never park in a passing place. On a bike you can often squeeze past at a wider spot, but the courtesy of pulling in, and a wave of thanks, makes the roads work for everyone.

Extensions

• The Road to the Isles (A830). From Fort William the A830 runs west past Glenfinnan, with its viaduct and monument, to Arisaig and Mallaig, about 70km (43 mi). Ferries run from Mallaig to Skye.
• On to Skye. North of Fort William, the A82 runs up the Great Glen to Invergarry, where the A87 turns west through Glen Shiel to Skye. See our Skye and Applecross guide.
• The A85 to Oban. From Tyndrum, the A85 runs west through Glen Lochy and along Loch Awe to Oban on the coast.
• Loch Ness to Inverness. Carry on up the Great Glen on the A82 along Loch Ness to Inverness, the start of the North Coast 500.

A suggested day

Leave Glasgow early to get the narrow Loch Lomond section done before the coaches and lorries build up. Stop at Tyndrum or Bridge of Orchy for a break, then take Rannoch Moor and Glencoe slowly, with stops at the viewpoints. Ride Glen Etive in the early afternoon, when the light is good and many visitors are having lunch, and finish in Glencoe village or Fort William. The ride itself takes about four hours with stops; with Glen Etive and the viewpoints it is a full day. On a second day, take the Road to the Isles to Mallaig and the ferry to Skye, or the A82 north along Loch Ness.

Bikes and kit

The A82 itself suits any bike. Glen Etive is a slow road with a rough surface in places, so take it easy on a road bike with low suspension. The real challenge here is the weather: the West Highlands are wet, and Rannoch Moor is cold and exposed. Pack proper waterproofs, a warm layer and gloves you can swap when the first pair gets soaked. Midge repellent is useful from June to August if you plan to stop at the lochs.

When to go

May to September. May and June give long, light evenings and fewer midges; September is often settled and quieter once the schools return. July and August are the busiest months, with coaches and campervans on the A82 and full car parks in Glencoe. Rain is likely at any time, and the West Highlands are among the wettest places in Britain, so good waterproofs are essential.

Where to stay

Fort William, Glencoe village and Ballachulish are the natural bases, with Tyndrum and Crianlarich further south. Book early in summer: the area is popular with walkers and climbers as well as riders. See all Scottish Highlands biker-friendly stays. For a different side of the Highlands, try the Snow Roads through the Cairngorms.