Sierra de Gredos by Motorcycle: The Puerto del Pico, La Vera and the Peña Negra

The Sierra de Gredos is the granite backbone of central Spain, a long range of high peaks between the plains of Castile and the valleys of Extremadura, with the Almanzor, at around 2,590 metres, the highest point. Madrid riders know it as their mountain playground: two hours from the city, it has passes, valleys and quiet roads in every direction, very little traffic during the week, and a different climate on each side of the range. The northern side is high, cool and pastoral; the southern side is warm, green and full of olive groves, chestnut trees and stone villages.

This two-day loop of around 330 kilometres from Arenas de San Pedro rides around the central part of the range.

Planning the loop

Arenas de San Pedro on the southern side, and Hoyos del Espino or Navarredonda de Gredos on the northern side, are the best bases. From Madrid, ride west on the A-5 toward Talavera and turn north, or take the N-403 through the Alberche valley; from Ávila, the N-502 leads south over the range. Day one goes north over the Puerto del Pico and west along the Tormes; day two comes back along the southern side through the Jerte valley and La Vera.

Day one: the Puerto del Pico and the Tormes valley (about 170km)

Arenas de San Pedro over the Puerto del Pico (about 30km). From Arenas ride east and north to Mombeltrán, with its castle, and join the N-502 for the climb to the Puerto del Pico. The road climbs the southern face of the range in long, well-engineered bends, with big views over the Tiétar valley. Beside it, a Roman road climbs the same slope in steep zigzags; you can see sections of it from the pull-ins. The pass, at about 1,350 metres, sits on the main ridge of the range.

The Puerto del Pico to Hoyos del Espino (about 30km). North of the pass the landscape changes completely: high, open granite country with pasture and stone walls. Ride west on the road toward the Tormes valley through Navarredonda de Gredos, where the Parador de Gredos, the first of Spain’s state-run hotels, sits in the pine woods. Then on to Hoyos del Espino.

To the Plataforma de Gredos and back (about 25km). From Hoyos del Espino, a dead-end road climbs south to the Plataforma de Gredos, a car park at the foot of the highest peaks. From here, walkers head up to the Laguna Grande below the Almanzor. The road is narrow and climbs through pine woods and over open granite slopes, with wild Spanish ibex often grazing nearby.

Down the Tormes to El Barco de Ávila (about 40km). Ride west down the Tormes valley through Navalperal de Tormes to El Barco de Ávila, a small town with a castle and a medieval bridge over the river. These are quiet, flowing roads with the snow-streaked peaks to the south.

The Peña Negra from Piedrahíta (about 45km). From El Barco ride north-east to Piedrahíta and take the AV-932, which climbs about 15 kilometres to the Puerto de la Peña Negra, at around 1,900 metres one of the highest paved passes in central Spain. The road is quiet, with a steady gradient, open views across the plains and the range, and the platforms on top used by paragliders. Ride back down to Piedrahíta and stay the night there or in El Barco.

Day two: the Jerte valley and La Vera (about 160km)

El Barco de Ávila over the Puerto de Tornavacas (about 30km). From El Barco ride south-west on the N-110 to the Puerto de Tornavacas, a pass at the head of the Jerte valley. The descent into the valley is a long run of bends through the cherry orchards that cover the terraced slopes; in spring the whole valley is white with blossom.

Down the Jerte valley toward Plasencia (about 40km). Follow the N-110 down the valley through Tornavacas, Jerte and Cabezuela del Valle. The road is wide and fast, but the villages are worth a stop. Short of Plasencia, turn east toward La Vera.

The La Vera road (about 70km). The EX-203 runs east along the southern foot of the range through La Vera, a fertile region known for its paprika (pimentón) and its stone villages with wooden balconies: Jaraíz de la Vera, Cuacos de Yuste, with the monastery where the Emperor Charles V spent his last years, Jarandilla de la Vera and Villanueva de la Vera. The road winds through oak woods and tobacco fields with the range rising above you, and side roads climb into the mountains to swimming holes in the gorges.

Back to Arenas de San Pedro (about 20km). East of La Vera, the road crosses into the province of Ávila at Candeleda, a village at the foot of the Almanzor, and continues east along the southern foot of the range back to Arenas de San Pedro.

Rules and practical points

All the roads on this loop are free. Spanish rules require dipped headlights at all times, helmets for rider and pillion, and a hi-vis vest is recommended. Speed limits are enforced with fixed cameras and radar on main roads such as the N-502 and N-110. Rules change, so check the DGT, Spain’s traffic authority, before you travel.

When to go

April to June and September to October are best. In late March and April the Jerte valley cherry blossom is a big draw, so expect more traffic at weekends. July and August are very hot on the southern side, often over 35°C, but the northern side stays cooler. The higher roads, such as the Peña Negra and the Plataforma road, can have snow and ice from November to April.

The roads

The main roads are well surfaced, with good sightlines. The smaller roads have more broken surfaces, gravel in the bends and cattle on the road, especially on the northern side, where cows and goats graze freely. Watch for cyclists on the Puerto del Pico and the Peña Negra at weekends. Fuel is available in Arenas, El Barco de Ávila, Piedrahíta, the Jerte valley and La Vera, but scarce on the high roads.

Where to stay

Arenas de San Pedro and Candeleda on the southern side, Navarredonda, Hoyos del Espino and El Barco de Ávila on the northern side, and the La Vera villages all have rider-friendly hotels and rural guesthouses. See our places to stay in Spain. From Gredos, the Serra da Estrela in Portugal is about four hours west, and the Picos de Europa are a long day north. Riders heading south can reach the Sierra Nevada and Ronda in a couple of days.