Picos de Europa by Motorcycle: La Hermida, San Glorio and Los Beyos

The Picos de Europa rise straight up from the green coast of northern Spain, a compact range of limestone peaks split by deep gorges. They straddle Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla y León, and the roads around them are among the best in Spain: gorges, high passes and long valley runs with very little traffic outside August. Riders arriving on the ferries to Santander or Bilbao can be here in a couple of hours. This 210km loop from Potes goes all the way round the central massifs.

The route

Potes to Riaño over San Glorio (about 60km). Potes, a stone town at the heart of the Liébana valley, is the classic base. Take the N-621 south-west up the valley and over the Puerto de San Glorio at 1,609m, a long, sweeping climb with views back to the peaks. Descend through Portilla de la Reina and Boca de Huérgano to Riaño, a village above a large reservoir ringed by mountains.

Riaño to Cangas de Onís via the Pontón and Los Beyos (about 65km). Take the N-625 north over the Puerto del Pontón at 1,280m. The road then drops through Oseja de Sajambre into the Desfiladero de los Beyos, where it follows the river Sella through a narrow gorge with rock walls rising high on both sides. It is one of the most dramatic roads in Spain. Cangas de Onís, with its steep medieval bridge, is the place for lunch.

Cangas de Onís to Panes (about 50km). Ride east on the AS-114 along the northern edge of the mountains through Arenas de Cabrales, home of the strong blue Cabrales cheese. The road follows river valleys with the peaks rising to the south.

Panes to Potes through La Hermida (about 30km). The finale is the N-621 south through the Desfiladero de La Hermida, a gorge around 20km long with walls hundreds of metres high, so narrow in places that the sun barely reaches the road. It opens out into the Liébana valley and back to Potes.

Side trips

From Potes, a valley road runs west to Fuente Dé, where a cable car climbs the cliffs at the head of the valley to a viewpoint high in the central massif. From Cangas de Onís, the road climbs to the shrine of Covadonga and on to the Covadonga lakes; private traffic to the lakes is restricted at busy times, so check before you go.

The roads

The main roads are generally well surfaced. In the gorges, watch for rockfall, damp patches where the sun does not reach and coaches on the tighter bends. The pass roads are open and fast, but cattle and horses roam freely on the high pastures, and there is little shelter if the weather turns. Fuel is available in Potes, Riaño, Cangas de Onís and Panes, with long gaps between them.

When to go

May to October. The passes can see snow into spring and from late autumn. June and September are ideal: green valleys, settled weather and fewer people. August is Spain's holiday month and the busiest time in Potes and Cangas de Onís. Low cloud is common, and the coast side is often wet when the León side is dry.

Where to stay

Potes and Cangas de Onís are the best bases, with Riaño for a night on the southern side. See all biker-friendly stays in Spain. The Picos pair well with the Spanish Pyrenees for a longer trip across northern Spain.