Luxembourg by Motorcycle: the Müllerthal, Vianden and the Our Valley

Luxembourg is small, but it packs a surprising amount of riding into its north and east. The Müllerthal, nicknamed Little Switzerland, is a maze of sandstone rocks and forested gorges; the Oesling in the north is the Luxembourg end of the Ardennes, with deep river valleys and castles on every second hill; and the Our valley runs along the German border with a quiet riverside road. A loop of about 190 kilometres covers the best of it in a day, and the German Eifel and the Belgian Ardennes are right next door.

Planning a Luxembourg trip

Vianden is the best base for riders: a small town on the Our under a huge restored castle, with the riverside roads and the Müllerthal both within half an hour. Echternach suits the Müllerthal side, Clervaux and Esch-sur-Sûre the north. One night covers the loop; two or three nights let you add the Eifel or the Belgian Ardennes.

Dutch riders reach Luxembourg in a few hours via Liège or the A1 and A60 through the German Eifel. From Germany, the A1 and A64 come in via Trier. Luxembourg has a reputation for fuel prices lower than its neighbours, and many riders crossing the region fill up there; compare prices on the day.

The route

Vianden to Echternach along the Our and the Sûre (about 35km). Leave Vianden south along the Our, with Germany just across the river. At Wallendorf the Our joins the Sûre (Sauer in German), and the road follows the Sûre downstream, with Bollendorf on the German bank, to Echternach, the oldest town in Luxembourg, with its basilica and market square. This is a gentle warm-up on riverside bends.

The Müllerthal: Berdorf, Müllerthal and Beaufort (about 30km). From Echternach climb onto the plateau to Berdorf and then drop into the Müllerthal itself. This is the most distinctive landscape in Luxembourg: sandstone cliffs, narrow gorges and moss-covered rocks under the beech forest, with the road winding along the Black Ernz stream past the Schiessentümpel waterfall. It is popular with walkers, so ride slowly near the car parks. Beaufort, with its ruined medieval castle and a Renaissance château beside it, is the next stop.

Larochette and on to Diekirch (about 30km). Ride west to Larochette, a small town in a deep valley with a castle ruin on the cliff above, then north to Diekirch on the Sûre. The roads here run through forest and small valleys, with short climbs and plenty of bends.

Bourscheid and the Upper Sûre (about 35km). From Diekirch follow the Sûre upstream. Bourscheid castle stands on a ridge above a loop of the river, one of the best castle views in the country. Further on, Esch-sur-Sûre sits in a tight bend of the river under its castle ruin, at the end of the Upper Sûre lake, a reservoir surrounded by wooded hills and the roads that wind around it.

North to Clervaux (about 30km). Ride north across the Oesling plateau to Clervaux, a town in a deep valley with a white castle in its centre. The roads cross high, open farmland and then dive steeply into the valleys, typical Ardennes riding.

The Our valley back to Vianden (about 30km). From Clervaux ride east to the Our at Dasburg, where a viewpoint looks over the valley, then follow the river south past Stolzembourg back to Vianden. The road stays close to the water, with forested slopes on both sides and the German border mid-stream. Finish with the climb up to Vianden castle for the view over the town.

The roads

Luxembourg's roads are generally very well surfaced, but they are busy on weekends, and speed cameras are common. The small valley roads are narrow and shaded, and stay damp after rain. Watch for walkers and cyclists in the Müllerthal and around the castles. The country is small, so you will cross into Germany or Belgium without noticing; each country has its own rules and speed limits, so check the official sources of each before you go.

Distances are short, but the stops add up: there is a castle, a viewpoint or a terrace café every few kilometres, so allow a full day for the loop. Parking at Vianden castle and in the Müllerthal fills up on summer weekends. A weekday, or an early start, makes the whole ride far more relaxed, and the late-afternoon light on the Our valley is a fine way to end the day.

When to go

April to October. Spring is green and quiet; autumn brings beautiful colour in the Ardennes forests. Summer weekends are busy around the castles and in the Müllerthal; a weekday is much more relaxed.

Making a weekend of it

Day one: the loop above. On day two, ride south-east from Echternach along the Sûre to Wasserbillig, where it joins the Moselle, then follow the Luxembourg Moselle south through the wine villages of Grevenmacher and Remich to Schengen, the village where the agreement on open borders was signed, with Germany on the far bank and France a few kilometres on. Come back north through Luxembourg City, whose old town sits on cliffs above the Alzette and Pétrusse valleys, or cross into Germany and return through the southern Eifel.

Riders with three days can add the Belgian Ardennes to the west: Clervaux to La Roche-en-Ardenne is under an hour, and the Ourthe and Amblève valleys pick up where the Luxembourg Ardennes leave off.

Food and stops

Luxembourg cooking mixes French and German traditions. Judd mat Gaardebounen (smoked pork collar with broad beans) is the national dish, and the Moselle valley is known for its white and sparkling wines. Vianden, Echternach and Clervaux all have cafés with terraces where bikes can park within sight.

Where to stay

Vianden, Echternach, Clervaux and Esch-sur-Sûre all make good bases. See all Luxembourg biker hotels, our Ardennes biker hotels for the Belgian side, and the Eifel for the German side just across the Our. The Belgian Ardennes loop and the Eifel and Nürburgring are both within an hour, and Trier and the Mosel are just south-east of Echternach.