Belgian Ardennes Motorcycle Loop: Ourthe, Amblève and Spa-Francorchamps

The Belgian Ardennes are the nearest proper riding hills for much of the Benelux and northern France. They are not high, but deep river valleys cut through a forested plateau, so the roads are a constant mix of climbs, descents and river bends. This 200km loop from La Roche-en-Ardenne covers the best of the Ourthe and Amblève valleys and the high plateau around Spa-Francorchamps.

The route

La Roche to Houffalize (about 25km). La Roche-en-Ardenne sits in a tight bend of the Ourthe under a ruined castle. Climb out of the valley and ride east over the plateau to Houffalize, another river town in a steep valley.

Houffalize to Vielsalm and Stavelot (about 45km). Head north-east over open farmland and forest to Vielsalm, then down to Stavelot, with its abbey and old town on the Amblève. Bastogne, with the Mardasson memorial to the Battle of the Bulge, is a 20-minute detour south of Houffalize if you want it.

The old Francorchamps circuit (about 20km). From Stavelot ride up to Francorchamps. The modern Spa-Francorchamps circuit is closed to the public except on track days, but the old long circuit ran on public roads between Francorchamps, Malmedy and Stavelot, and you can still ride much of it. Watch your speed: these are normal roads with villages, junctions and speed checks.

Malmedy and the Hautes Fagnes (about 30km). From Malmedy climb onto the Hautes Fagnes, a high moorland plateau of bog and heath. The Signal de Botrange, at 694m, is the highest point in Belgium. It is often foggy and several degrees colder than the valleys below.

The Amblève valley to Durbuy (about 50km). Drop back to Stavelot and follow the Amblève downstream past the Coo waterfall toward Aywaille. These are some of the best river roads in the Ardennes. Then turn south-west to Durbuy, a tiny town on the Ourthe.

Durbuy to La Roche (about 30km). Follow the Ourthe upstream through Hotton and back to La Roche, with the river close by for most of the way.

Extension: the Semois valley

With a second day, ride south to Bouillon and its castle, then follow the Semois as it loops through deep, forested valleys toward the French border. The viewpoints above the river at Rochehaut are among the best in the Ardennes.

The roads

The main roads are mostly well surfaced, but the small valley roads can be patched, narrow and damp in the shade. Agricultural traffic leaves mud on the road, especially in autumn. Weekends are busy with riders from Belgium, the Netherlands and Germany, and speed checks are common, particularly around Francorchamps and on the popular valley roads.

When to go

April to October. The valleys are green and quiet in spring. Autumn brings beautiful forest colours. Summer weekends and race weekends at Spa-Francorchamps are the busiest times; if you are not there for the racing, check the circuit calendar before you book.

Where to stay in the Ardennes

La Roche-en-Ardenne, Durbuy, Stavelot, Malmedy and Bouillon all make good bases. See all Ardennes biker hotels with secure parking. The German Eifel and the Nürburgring are under an hour east of Malmedy, so the two regions pair easily.