Wild Atlantic Way by Motorcycle: Donegal to Kerry and Cork

The Wild Atlantic Way follows Ireland's Atlantic coast for about 2,500km (1,550 mi), from the Inishowen peninsula in Donegal to Kinsale in County Cork. It is signposted all the way with the zig-zag WAW signs. It is less a single road than a chain of coast roads, peninsula loops and mountain passes, and on a bike it is one of the great long rides in Europe. Most riders take two weeks for the whole thing, or ride one or two of the sections below over a long weekend.

Donegal (north)

The route starts at Malin Head, the most northerly point of the island of Ireland. Donegal is the wildest and emptiest stretch of the whole way. The best riding is in the south-west of the county: Glengesh Pass above Ardara drops in hairpins into a green valley, and a narrow road climbs to the viewpoint at Sliabh Liag, among the highest sea cliffs in Europe. The final part of the road to the cliffs is steep and tight; park and walk if in doubt.

Mayo and Connemara (west)

In Mayo, ride the Atlantic Drive on Achill Island, reached by a bridge, and the R335 through the Doolough valley between Louisburgh and Leenaun, a bare, empty valley between mountains and one of the best roads in Ireland. Killary Harbour, often called Ireland's only fjord, marks the border with Connemara. Beyond it, the Sky Road loop from Clifden runs along a ridge above the ocean.

Clare (middle)

South of Galway, the Burren is a strange, bare limestone landscape. The N67 climbs Corkscrew Hill south of Ballyvaughan in a series of bends with views back over Galway Bay. The coast road continues to the Cliffs of Moher, the busiest stop on the whole way, then south to the ferry across the Shannon estuary from Killimer to Tarbert, which saves a long detour inland.

Kerry and West Cork (south)

Kerry is the high point for riders. On the Dingle peninsula, the Conor Pass is one of the highest roads in Ireland, narrow, with a sheer drop on one side and room for only one vehicle in places. The Slea Head loop at the tip of the peninsula is pure coast road. The Ring of Kerry on the Iveragh peninsula is the famous one: tour coaches ride it anticlockwise, so choose your direction knowing that you will either follow them or meet them on narrow bends. Further south, the Healy Pass on the Beara peninsula is a ribbon of hairpins across the mountains, and Mizen Head is the far south-west corner before the run east to Kinsale.

The roads

Irish west-coast roads are narrow, often bumpy and patched, with loose gravel, potholes and grass in the middle on the smallest lanes. Expect cattle grids, sheep, tractors and coaches, and drive on the left. Speed limits are in km/h. The weather changes fast and rain is likely in any month, so good waterproofs and heated grips are worth more than outright pace. Fuel is easy to find in towns, less so on the peninsulas, so fill up before each loop.

When to go

May to September. May and June have very long days and fewer visitors. July and August are busiest, with coaches on the Ring of Kerry and full accommodation in Dingle, Kenmare and Clifden. September is often settled and quieter. Winter riding is possible but short days and storms make it hard work.

Where to stay

Good bases include Donegal town or Ardara in the north, Westport or Clifden in the west, Doolin or Lahinch in Clare, and Dingle, Kenmare or Killarney in Kerry. See all Wild Atlantic Way biker-friendly stays. Book ahead from June to August.